Wednesday, January 28, 2009

at Eleven Madison Park

At the door of Eleven Madison Park, Maitre D pointed one of my badges on my bag because the badge says "I heart porn." Although he said nicely "Could you take off that (pointed my bag but he didn't say I love porn), please," He looked at me like "What the fuck! Oh my god! Is he stupid or something." I said It doesn't mean anything, though." But still he said "please" and looked at me like 'Oh for god sake! Oh my god. Are you serious?' Anyhow, I took it off as he demanded. Since the restaurant was such high standard restaurant, I could understand why he asked me to removed the badge. I believe he didn't mean to me, he just did his job.

After meeting with Executive sous chef, I could change to chef jacket and go to the kitchen. The kitchen was enormously huge. I guess it was the biggest kitchen I've never been whole my chef career. Kitchen made me feel nerves and, at the same time, exciting to be there. Well organized spaces and all the chefs work very hard. I can smell the kitchen. Very light and good. By the way, I like that feeling in the morning I go inside of the walk-in. As long as no food was spoiled in there, smell is very delicious and make me eat something.

First impression was very good. The monster size of kitchen and many working hard chefs in the kitchen made me really small me even though I am a small guy. One of chefs showed me around and i stared chopping. The time I started work was almost finished lunch service, so lunch, dinner shift chefs, and prep kitchen cooks were packed in the kitchen. Every corner and sections were filled with hard working chefs. Cooking, chopping, and laughing from little chatting while their hands were busy. I was too nervous. I almost barely spoke English. First day, so what the hell!! Chopped few things and did whatever other chefs asked me to do, when Ex. sous chef found mistake from my works, I felt really sham, I said my self, "Fucking Roy, You are fucking chef.Oh come on!! Please don't let you down." I saw another chef seasoned lobster something mixture and I couldn't taste anything he added, which meant the mixture needed more ingredients. Anyhow, I didn't say anything about it and the chef upset to him. I just simply don't want to say something like as if I knew everything unless someone asks me, it is just my thing. I helped them to set up the section and did some preps as well. One of black pants chef, only the level is above the sous chef allows to wear black pant at some kitchens, asked me to come to the front of the kitchen where the dishes are served to costumers in the dining room by waiters.


Before I stood at the pass, I tasted several dished. First dish was little bit size of canape. My impression was the small flavorful bites were very pretty. These had every that canape needs, such as size and attractive color. Each bites were pretty good,especially I like that foie gras. Next dish I had was crab wrapped with avocado slices. With some flowers and dills, the dish was very colorful but taste wasn't that flavorful. I guess this dish more emphasized on natural flavor of crab because it had lightly seasoned. However, it was good. I also had today's Amuse. Chapped lobster and some sort of jelly I can't remember what it was, it was came with hot soup so it makes to start the meal warmly in cold winter season.


At the pass, I was watching the service. I'd really prefer doing something to standing at the pass and watching the service. I wanted to be a part of action. Since I wasn't trained to cook the dishes at that kitchen, I had no choice but standing. Eleven Madison park served very interesting food. Three Michelin stars size of kitchen, dining room, service and dishes, yet they haven't had chance to gain even one stars since they opened. Some people carefully said that they used too much sous-vide cooking. As matter of the fact, I saw many ingredients, such as lamb, chicken, beef and fish, were placed in the plastic wrap or pack then cooked in certain temperature. First of all, all the dishes were very detailed and colorful. Second, the some of taste was actually not bad. However, the chicken dish wasn't look so tasteful. Okay, it was nice touch to put some slices of truffle underneath of chicken skin but it was poached. chicken was really white. More likely itself says "I am white meat!" I'd prefer crispy chicken skin. My chef told me the best way to cook chicken is to cook with lot of butter. Butter will make crispy chicken skin and gives extra flavor and moisture. The chicken was as white as white plate. About the lamb dish, it was also wrapped and cooking in water, so it actually dipped it into sauce. By the time the lamb was arrived at the pass, it was already covered with dripping sauces. I tasted a piece. Luckily, the sauce wasn't that too strong enough to cover the lamb flovor that I expected; otherwise I probably couldn't taste meaty. However, I like lamb itself more than sauce.


Executive Sous chef,Fabien Beafour, asked me what my specially is. Frankly, I don't have my color yet. I'm still developing. I said I don't have any specialty yet I like to cook french food. A few minute later, he brought me a couple eggs, a red onion and mushroom and asked me to make French Omelet. The first word in my mind was "Shit!" and "Really?" I really didn't want to do it. At the first day, I don't want to make embarrass myself, yet I didn't have any choice and the time was ticking, I had a half hours. Another condition was that I could use anything in the kitchen. Well, I have made omelet before for myself and someone who woke up with me. It could be my excuse but I have only done the omelet at the cooking school. I knew it is basic. Learning the cooking in Korea absolutely didn't help me to cook something beside knife skills. My brain was busy. I just had Iron chef challenge. Today's menu is French Omelet which using the main ingredients of red onion, mushroom and egg. Okay French Omelet, how the fuck I cook it? Indeed, what the fuck is French omelet? Shit, I don't want to be judged by cooking something I've never done and heard before in front of someone. Anyway, I tried. I needed non-stick pan but I couldn't find. As i expected, ordinary pan couldn't help me to make omelet so my plan B was scramble egg. Cooked it and served to the black pants chefs. They tasted it and then disappointed. Chef Fabien even told me he will tell me how to cook French omelet or something if I came back to kitchen next time. Well, sound good but I overheard he was talking about me in the locker room with other chefs. That made me really sham about myself. It was really shock.


Past over 8 years of cooking wasn't absolutely nothing. I Knew my former training wasn't that rich and seasoned. I knew I have to study hard and work hard. My problem is this; I love something but I only love it. I don't push myself hard and put much effort to reach the goal. My conclusion is this it was good experience to be at Eleven Madison Park. However, the kitchen wasn't where I want to work. Big kitchen has sometimes better benefit than small kitchen. Although it has more spaces, less hours work and stress, perhaps, I have to work one job every day. What I like is I want to multi-play at the kitchen. I believe I am a fast learner. I could adjust easily. Another word, if I could every sections in the kitchen, I could be a better chef. The final words, I remember my chef told me if someone start cooking with sous-vide, the person can cook only with that, yet cooking not all about the sous-vide.


Chef Fabien saw my little card and then said why I put the title of chef since I am yet to be chef who couldn't make even egg dish. My answer was this "I am actually qualified chef in Korea and I want to be a chef so I called my self as a chef." At that time, I couldn't make French Omelet to him, but one day, I became a masterful chef, I will serve him same dish in my restaurant and ask him how it was.

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